Internet Info 1993/Internet Info CD-ROM (Walnut Creek) (1993).iso/answers/rec/boats-faq/part3

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From: [e-mail] (John F. Hughes)
Subject: rec.boats Frequently Asked Questions (Part 3 of 4)
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Archive-name: boats-faq/part3

TOTALS   $3,408  $3,010  $4,976  $1,099  $3,083  $1,615    $300

                   ANNUAL TOTAL    $17,491         AVERAGE MONTHLY  $1,458
   ________________________________________________________________________

And for another sailboat:

We're under 1,000 a  month for a 39'  sailboat at the Shilshole
Bay Marina in Seattle.

And one more:

I don't  have monthly totals,  but the following  are my yearly
totals for a 22' commercial dory with an 88 h.p. outboard ...


Licensing fees:  Fish and Wildlife                      450.00
                NOAA Marine mammal exemption            30.00
                F.C.C. Operators license                35.00
                                                       _______
                total:                                 $550.00

Maintenance and upkeep:                                $2884.50

total fuel consumption:         534.6 gallons           $787.22

total tackle expenses                                   $825.32
                                                      _________
Grand total:                                           $5047.04

I fished the boat  an average of three  days a week (some weeks
more,  others  less)  and I  grossed  3372.06  last  year. That
brought my total  expenditure for eight  months of fishing (and
boating on the Pacific) to about  2700. That gives me a monthly
average of about 225/month.

My insurance (for an ocean going commercial fishing vessel) was
236 for 1992. That will go up to 242 this year.

And one more:

OK, how's this for cheap: A friend  of mine and I bought a used
DaySailer for  somewhat less than  3000 last  summer and during
the  fall  sailing season,  we  spent  less than  300  total on
maintenance,  which included  a  new battery  for  our trolling
motor, various  rigging upgrades,  a new  trailer wheel, grease
for  the  trailer wheels,  and  a  new anchor.  We've  spent 70
pre-season  this  year for  a  reef  point and  other  than new
bearings on the trailer, we're ready  to go. OK, so we don't do
blue-water sailing,  but it  gets us  out on  the water  on the
weekends. :-)

Let me also add  a remark from Mike  Hughes: People waste time,
effort and money on  all kinds of things  that don't make sense
when by owning a boat one can consolidate and waste them all on
one thing.

Think about that before  you ever consider owning  a boat as an
investment.


5.7 Who can tell me about boat X?

Various people on the  net know about their  own boats and seem
to be  willing to talk.  Here is  a list of  boat types, e-mail
addresses, and names.

Alberg 30       [e-mail]               Bob Parkinson
Alberg 37       [e-mail]             John Hughes
Beneteau First 235 [e-mail]         Anselmo Lastra
C\&C 32         [e-mail]          Dave Kell
Cal 20          [e-mail]  Stefan Michalowski
Catalina 27     [e-mail]          Wayne Simpson
Catalina 25     [e-mail]               Bob Parkinson
Cotuit Skiff    [e-mail]               Bob Parkinson
Coronado 15     [e-mail]  Steve Comen
CSY-44          [e-mail]  Andy Germain
DN Iceboat      [e-mail]             John Hughes
Dovekie         [e-mail]             John Hughes
Drascombe Coaster [e-mail]          Anselmo Lastra
Flying Dutchman [e-mail]          Guido Bertucci
Gulfstar 37     [e-mail]       Larry Swift
Herreschoff 12  [e-mail]             John Hughes
HinkleyIslander [e-mail]               Bob Parkinson
J/24            [e-mail]      Roy Smith
MacGregor 25    [e-mail]          Dave Kell
Mercer 44       [e-mail]             John Hughes
Olson 25        [e-mail]  Stefan Michalowski
Puddleduck pram [e-mail]               Bob Parkinson
Stone Horse     [e-mail]             John Hughes
Tornado         [e-mail]             John Hughes
PearsonVanguard [e-mail]   Steve Fisher
Sonar           [e-mail]            David Spencer
Cal 20          [e-mail]          Hoover Chan
Ericson 27      [e-mail]
                                            Craig Haggart




5.8 What are the laws about boats...?

First and foremost, there is a US Coast Guard User Fee required
for  almost  all  vessels (being  phased  out  during 1993/94).
There's an  800 number  you can call  to find  out whether your
boat  needs  one,  and  to  order  one  by  credit  card (1-800
848-2100).  If you  want to  operate  a VHF  radio, you  need a
lense; failure to carry one can result in huge fines. The Coast
Guard now  checks for  that license if  they board  you for any
reason.

You can  learn about  operating procedures  for your  VHF radio
from  Chapman's  (see the  bibliography).  One  essential rule:
Channel  16  is  for  commercial  hailing  and  distress calls.
Hailing by  recreational vessels is  now supposed  to happen on
Channel 9.

You  are required  to carry  adequate  saftey devices  for your
boat.  What  is deemed  adequate  varies by  size.  Most marine
stores have a pretty good  idea what's the minimum. Once again,
Chapman's can give you details.

There are no  ``licenses'' for boating in  the US---you can buy
the biggest,  fastest boat  on earth  and do  whatever you want
with it,  as long  as it's  recreational and  you do  not carry
passengers or freight for hire.  For those, you need a license.
Prudence dictates  that you  should learn  how to  operate your
vessel before you  start out. Note that  many states have begun
enforcing Boating  While Intoxicated  laws, and  that some have
begun enforcing speed limits.

If you want to operate a  marine radio from your boat, you need
a station license. Generally  a license application is packaged
with each radio set, and  all radio dealers carry applications.
There is a 35 application fee.  If you are licensing any marine
radios,   the   first  will   be  a   VHF  set   for  ``local''
communications  (  <30  miles) with  2-25  watt  output. Marine
radios must be ``type accepted''  which means you can not build
it yourself, or  modify a CB, commercial,  or ham set. Pleasure
boaters do not need a radio operator's license. (wv)

You are required to carry safety devices for your boat. What is
required varies  by size and  state. Most marine  stores have a
pretty good idea what's the minimum. Once again, Chapman's, and
every boating safety class, can give you details. (wv)

In general, boat registration laws  and fees vary from state to
state.  Usually  a  boat  dealer  or  the  local  state  police
detachment is a good starting point for specifics. (wv)

There are  no general licenses  for driving a  pleasure boat in
the US ---you can buy the biggest, fastest boat on earth and do
whatever you want with it, as long as it's recreational and you
do not carry passengers or freight for hire. On the other hand,
some  STATES now  require  persons under  the  age of  18(?) to
complete   a  state  certified  boating  safety  course  before
operating a boat. (wv)

To  carry  any  passengers  for hire  you  need  a  Coast Guard
license. Before you can even  take the required written exam(s)
you  need documentary  evidence of  a full  year (365  days) of
boating  experience. Licenses  come  in several  categories. To
carry more than six passengers for  hire, the boat must also be
inspected by  the Coast Guard.  Fines for  violations are quite
high. (wv)


5.9 What's a formula for top speed?

The answer, verbatim from mp, is:

The formula yacht designers use is called Crouch's formula.
It takes into account the weight and horsepower at the
propeller, and assumes a 50\% to 60\% efficient prop.
Most props fall into this range.  Note that it doesn't take
into account the boat length, as that doesn't matter with
planing boats.

Crouch's Formula

   V = C/((DISP/HP)**.5)

Where V    = boat speed in knots  (1 knot=1.15 mph)
     C    = Constant (depends on boat type)
     DISP = Displacement (pounds)
              Note that boat manufacturers usually give
              innacurate numbers for displacement,
              typically on the low side
     HP   = Horsepower available at the propeller

For comparison sake, here are some average values of C:
    150       Typical lightweight, planing cruiser
    180       High Speed Runabout
    200-230   Race boats, hydroplanes etc.





5.10 Accurate time source for navigation

The time of  day is broadcast  on radio stations  WWV and WWVH,
which transmit in  the shortwave bands,  on 2.5, 5,  10, 15, 20
MHz. The  time is  announced every  minute, and  at other times
there is  a steady  beeping. Any  shortwave receiver  should be
able to pick up these broadcasts - the particular frequency you
can receive will vary with location and time of day.

You can also hear the  NIST's WWV broadcasts via the telephone.
The number is [phone].


5.11 Winter storage for batteries, and their state of charge

There is a ritual debate on this topic each year. The concensus
seems to  be that (1)  It's OK to  store a battery  on a cement
floor, but  if you  stick it  on an  old piece  of plywood, any
drips or spills will be easier  to clean up, so perhaps the old
wives tale has  some value, (2)  storing a battery  cold in the
winter, provided it is fully charged, is an OK thing to do. The
rate of discharge  is reduced by the  cold environment, so less
frequent recharging is called for.

Here is an article from Finn Stafsnes, which seems to have some
hard data (fs):

The  content  is taken  from  a booklet  provided  by norwegian
battery manufacturer (Anker-Sonnak).

I have done some linear interpolation between tabulated values.
Therefore  minor  errors  due  to  non-linear  effects  may  be
present. I can only hope that I  have not done big errors in my
calculations.

State of  charge Spec.gravity  Freezing pt.  Spec.gravity @ +25
C,77 F deg C, F @ freez.temp. kilograms/litre kilograms/litre

Full 1.280 -68, -90 ? 75 50 25 weak 1.160 -17, + 1 1.189 0 0

If   it  is  impractical  to   measure  the  spec.  gravity  an
approximate formula is given based upon voltage measurment:

Spec.gravity (@ 25 C) = (Voltage of battery/no of cells) - 0.84
(kilogr./lit.)

The  voltage  should be  measured  after the  battery  has been
disconnected for at least 6 hours.

A discharged battery will gradually be distroyed if stored in a
low state of  charge condition due to  crystal growth of PbSO4,
even if it does not freeze.

Self discharge is halved for every  10 deg C (18 F) the storage
temperature is reduced.

Conclusion: Keep the battery well  charged all the time. If you
dont  want to  recharge during  the  winter, store  the battery
cold.

And here is a mini-FAQ written by Alan Yelvington:

The efficiency of batteries  varies with time, temperature, and
state of charge.

Batteries  self-discarge  over  time.  Lead-calcium  (die-hard)
discharge faster  that straight  lead-acid. Their  advantage is
that they typically do not need to have the water replaced.

Temperature will  kill a battery  over time. If  a battery gets
too hot, its  self-discharge rate goes up.  If the battery gets
to  cold, the  reaction that  produces electricity  gets slowed
down and the full capacity cannot be ``harvested.''

The state of charge limits  efficiency because of the reactions
in the battery.  If a battery  is left dead  for too long (this
means  you),  the  internal  plates  will  start  to accumulate
lead-sulphate on them. This insulates that portion of the plate
so  that  in can  no  longer  contribue to  the  output  of the
battery. It takes extra power  in to remove the sulphation that
cannot   be   recouped.  (EDTA   will  chemically   remove  the
sulphate....)

A typical battery  in good condition  will return 90  to 95 put
into it under these conditions:

DO NOT recharge at a rate  of more that one tenth its capacity.
eg. A 220 amp-hour battery should not be recharged at more than
22 amps. The  excess current will generate  waste heat and form
lead-sulphite.  The lead-sulphite  is  worse than  the sulphate
because it cannot be removed.

DO NOT discharge a battery beyond 50

DO NOT over charge the battery. (Lead Sulphite problem again.)

DO  NOT discharge  the  battery faster  than  one tenth  of its
capacity. That  is, don't  draw more  than 22  amps from  a 220
amp-hour battery.  You'll just make  waste heat  that cannot do
work.

DO use the battery and not  just leave it dormant all the time.
If you must have a battery for infrequent use, NiCd or gelcells
are much better and are another story altogether. (ay)

Another reader  pointed me  towards a  nice solar  panel charge
controller the  November, 1993  issue of  ``73'' magazine. It's
used by a guy with 200 WATTS of solar panels on his roof.


5.12 Online information

(This section courtesy of sb)

You can FTP hourly surface analyses  (one of the things you can
recieve with a weather fax receiver), in the form of .GIF files
from vmd.cs.uiuc.edu, in directory WX.

There is also hourly raw visual and infrared satellite imagery,
(from GEOS-7) which I don't know what to do with these.

The files are SA*.GIF, CI*.GIF and  CV*.GIF, where the * is the
date and GMT hour of the picture.

Then, if you  are on a  unix system, you  can use xloadimage to
display them.

There are also .DOC files  which describe many other sources of
weather related information on the network.

Also,

finger weather@18.83.0.103

gets the Boston area forecast, and

telnet madlab.sprl.umich.edu 3000

gets you any forecast you like. If you enter the city ``BOSM,''
you get the forecast for Boston, PLUS the marine forecast. This
may work for other cities as well.

The racing rules updates can  be found on the Ship-to-Shore BBS
(the number is  listed in the  Max Ebb article).  Here's a list
that I got from the BBS: (hc)


Ship to Shore OIS
Marine Net for Sailors

Alameda     CA   510-523-8161       Arlington       VA   703-525-1458
Chicago     IL   708-670-7940       New York City   NY   718-430-2410
Portland    OR   503-297-9073       Redwood City    CA   415-365-6384
Toronto     ON   416-538-2496       Vancouver       BC   604-540-9596



5.13 Should we split rec.boats?

This topic arises  about once a year.  Each time the concensus,
with a a growing number of dissenters, is that (a) much of what
is discussed  here would  be crossposted  to rec.boats.sail and
rec.boats.power  if they  both existed,  (b) many  topics, like
maintenance,  moorings,  coast  guard  regs,  boat  shows,  the
grounding of the QEII, large oil spills, etc., are of (passing)
interest to almost anyone who goes out on the water, (c) we all
learn something about the folks with whom we share the water by
reading  what they  have  to say,  (d)  the volume  of postings
although rapidly increasing, is not  too large, and the rapidly
increasing   speeds  of  modems  and  newsreader  makes  simply
skipping over articles  of no interest a  small burden, and (e)
the  annoyance  of trying  to  indicate, in  the  header, which
*sort* of  boating your  message might  apply to  outweighs the
advantages of doing so.

Of course, with regard to item  ``c'', it is possible that what
we  learn  reinforces  the stereotypes,  or  that  it  leads to
greater understanding. One can hope for the latter.

Think carefully about  what's been said  above before posting a
suggestion that we  split rec.boats. Unless  you have something
truly novel to propose, you will almost certainly generate lots
of postings with the same end  result that I've seen five times
now (I think): no  split. I did, for a  while, as an attempt at
conciliation, begun to prefix my  postings with ``S'' for sail,
``P''  for power,  and ``A''  for  all. No  one else,  even the
advocates  of splitting,  did so,  so  I abandoned  the effort.
(jfh)

Further information: for Unix users, the newsreaders ``rn'' and
``nn'' (and others, I'm sure) support the notion of killing all
articles containing  some phrase  in the  body or  the title. I
believe the same is true of gnus, and probably is the case with
many other  newsreaders on  non-unix machines.  Perhaps this is
worth investigating.

One more piece of information:  I will record the recurrence of
the should-we-split discussion. 10/15/93 is most recent.


5.14 What sextant should I buy to learn with?

Good sextants are expensive (about  3000US is not unusual), and
the inexpensive  plastic ones  (Davis make  the best-known) are
far cheaper.  For learning,  or even  for real  navigation, the
Davis models  are fine, but  require more  careful and frequent
adjustment, and often seem to give less accurate results.

They will give a  result accurate to within  about 2 minutes of
arc, which should get your  position right within about 3 miles
or so.  Errors made by  beginners are  usually computational or
mistakes  of understanding,  and tend  to  be far  greater than
this. So a plastic sextant makes  a fine tool for learning. Buy
one,  and if  you  like it,  keep  it as  a  spare when  you go
offshore.

Hints:  to keep  the readings  accurate, beware  of temperature
fluctuations, which warp the  sextant (temporarily). In winter,
wear  gloves.  In summer,  watch  out  for having  part  of the
sextant  in sun  and part  in  shade. And  last but  not least,
always approach your  reading from the  same side (i.e., always
increase  the angle  until the  sun  is on  the horizon---don't
increase  and  then  decrease  and  then  increase,  etc.) This
prevents backlash from screwing up your readings. (jfh)


5.15 Boat pictures, and ftp sites for boat info

I (sb2) run the rec.boats FTP server(if you can use a listserv,
you  too can  have them)  for pictures.  Some from  my personal
collection, some from the America's Cup, others from Whitbread,
etc.

dell1.dell.com in the anonymous FTP directory/donate/boats

I believe that Steve also  maintains an ftp-able version of the
FAQ. So  do I (jfh)  on the machine  wilma.cs.brown.edu, in the
pub directory with the  name rec.boats_FAQ.Z. The file POWER.UU
that's there is  also of interest  to some rec.boaters---it's a
PC program  for something  to do  with surface-piercing drives,
submitted by Paul Kamen.


5.16 Propellor selection

GENERAL RULE  OF PROP SELECTION:  On a properly  trimmed boat a
prop of the correct pitch and diameter will permit the motor to
attain it's maximum rated RPMs but NO MORE.

HOW TO BUY THE CORRECT PROP:  The best method of prop selection
that  I know  of is  to find  a  dealer that  will let  you try
several props with the understanding  that you will buy the one
that performs as above. Of course it is also understood that if
you ding a test prop you will buy it.

Contributed by hl.


5.17 Binocular selection

Contributed by (pe).

The quality of binoculars shows  up in several important areas.
this is certainly  one product area that  the quality can range
from junk to excellent, and you get what you pay for. The areas
of prime concern are as follows:

1) Eye  relief: This  is the distance  back from  the eye piece
that the  image is  formed. Most  binoculars have  a rubber eye
piece that positions your eyes in the proper place. This rubber
piece can  then be folded  out of  the way for  people who wear
glasses. A  longer eye  relief is  more forgiving  to those who
wear glasses.

2) EXIT  PUPIL: Generally tied  closely to eye  relief, this is
the diameter  of the  image comming out  of the  eye piece. The
larger this is,  the less sensitive  it will be  to having your
eye is in  the exact right spot.  Generally speaking, larger is
better.  But  to  make  it  larger,  the  overall  size  of the
binoculars increases.

3) Light Transmission: The percentage  of light that enters the
front lens that makes  it out the eye  piece. For daylight use,
this  is not  too  critical. For  nightime  use, a  few percent
improvement in the amount of light making it through can make a
hugh difference. The type of optics (glass versus plastic), the
coatings on the  lens elements, and the  overall quality of teh
lenses make  the difference.  Large, GLASS,  coated optics give
much  better  performance  than  plastic,  uncoated  optics. Of
course, large glass elements start to get heavy.

4) Depth of Field: As a side effect of the above three items is
an improved depth of field. This is the distance that an object
remains in focus. The really good units don't even have a focus
knob,  as  the  depth  of  feild  is  so  large  that  it isn't
necessary.

5) GAS FILLED: The better units are sealed, and purged with dry
nitrogen.  This  keeps  moisture  out,  keeps  the  lenses from
fogging, and helps improve the overall optical qualities.

6) THE  CASE: A rubber  armored, rugged case  will help prevent
damage.  Lens  caps that  stay  with  the unit  keep  them from
getting lost, and  make it much  more likely that  you will put
them back on to protect the lenses.

You may want to check out  the West Marine catalog. They have a
chart   listing  all  the   important  characteristics  of  the
binoculars that  they sell. Compare  it against the  specs of a
unit you are considering. Decide if you might ever need to read
the number on a channel marker at night.

My advice is to go with  the best that you can afford. Properly
treated, they will last forever and you will not be sorry.



Chapter 6

List of Contributors

Here is a list of the people who contributed to the information
above.   The  list  is  widly  incomplete,  because  I  started
collecting the information  (for myself) long  before I planned
to make  the FAQ,  and didn't  attach names  to lots  of things
people  told  me.  My  apologizes  to  those  whose  names I've
omitted. I'll gladly add them if you tell me to.


ab    [e-mail]       Al Bowers
ag    [e-mail]       Andy Germain
al    [e-mail]                 Anselmo Lastra
ay    [e-mail]          Alan Yelvington
bj    [e-mail]                 Bill Jones
bp    [e-mail]    Bill Plunkett
bm    [e-mail]             Bill McGown
bs    [e-mail]         Brian Smith

cr    [e-mail]        Cindy Rossley
da    [e-mail]            Dave Angelini
dk1   [e-mail]        Dave Kinzer
dk2   [e-mail]               Dave Kell
dz    [e-mail]        David Zielke
eb    [e-mail]                  Earl Boebert
em    [e-mail]               Ellen Murphy
fm    [e-mail]          Francis Muir
fs    [e-mail]          Finn Stafsnes
gb1                                     Greg Bullough
gb2                                     Gerard Bras
gf    [e-mail]       Greg (Fox?)
hc    [e-mail]               Hoover Chan
hl    [e-mail]          Hal Lynch
jb    [e-mail]    Jeremy Bloxham
jfh   [e-mail]                  John Hughes
jz    [e-mail]      Jon Zeeff
la    [e-mail]        Lance Andrewes
mb    [e-mail]              Mike Burati
mp    phred![e-mail]           Matt Pedersen
mt    [e-mail]              Mark Tilden
pe    [e-mail]  Peter Engels
ph    lotus!lotatg.  lotus.com![e-mail]
                                       Phil Somebody
pk    [e-mail]               Paul Kamen
ps    [e-mail]
                                       Paul Salzman
rs    [e-mail]           Roy Smith
rs2   [e-mail]        Bob Stepno
rs3   [e-mail]        Robyn Spady
sb    [e-mail]        Stephen Bailey
sb2   [e-mail]           Steve Blair
sc    [e-mail]       Steve Comen
sm    [e-mail]       Stefan Michalowski
srb   [e-mail]
                                       Scott Richard Berg
tc    [e-mail]         Tony Chatzigianis
wh    [e-mail]  Will Howard
wms   [e-mail]                  Wayne Simpson
wo    [e-mail]          Someone Woodruff
wv    [e-mail] Wallace Venable





Chapter 7

Bibliography


7.1 Magazines

AMERICAN SAILOR, none, This one is for members of USYRU. Almost
exclusively for racing. Dave Perry  has a short but interesting
``rules corner''.

ASH BREEZE, none, P.  O. Box 350, Mystic,  CT 06355, 15/year (4
issues).    The  journal   of   the  Traditional   Small  Craft
Association.    Member-contributed   articles   about   design,
construction, and  history of  traditional boats.  Members also
receive    discounts  on   books  published   by  International
Marine.(al).

BOAT DESIGN QUARTERLY, none, P.O. Box 98, Brooklin, ME, 24/year
(only 4  issues). Each issue  contains six to  eight reviews of
boat  designs.  This  magazine is  mostly  the  effort  of Mike
O'Brien (who also  writes for WoodenBoat  magazine). Only worth
it for those truly obsessed with boat designs.(al).

BOATBUILDER, none, P.O.  Box 420235, Palm  Coast, FL 32142-0235
800-786-3459. Primarily amatuer  construction. Monthly articles
by notable Dave  Gerr (lots of  his latest book  "The Nature of
Boats" was  first published  in Boatbuilder).  Includes instant
boat construction, origami steel boats, etc.(mp).

COASTAL CRUISING, none, The Magazine of Achievable Dreams. This
rag was formerly called  "Carolina Cruising" and probably still
should  be.  Concentrates  on  the  ICW  around  and  about its
Beufort, NC home  base. A harbor  profile in each  issue with a
color  arial  photograch  as  a  centerspread.  Quirky  columns
written  by  people who  are  really into  bringing  the spoken
accent to  the written page.  Printed on  cheap newsprint paper
and comes out 6 times a year.  Unless you live or cruise in the
Carolinas, save your money. (wms).

CRUISING WORLD,  none, Good articles,  wonderful reader service
called  ``Another Opinion'',  which will  tell you  about other
readers who  own the  same boat  that you  do (or  that you are
thinking of buying), and who might be interested in telling you
about it, Extensive brokerage and charter listing. -jfh-.

GREAT LAKES SAILOR,  none, Tends to focus  on the sailing scene
in the midwest.

LATITUDE  38,  none,  The  SF  Bay  sailing  rag.  Cheap paper,
irreverant staff. Far  more honest than  any other sailing rag.
Latitude 38,P.O.  Box 1678,Sausalito  CA 94966,USA.  Phone: 415
383   8200   ;  415  383   5816  (fax).   First  class  postage
subscription:   45/year.  Third   class  postage  subscription:
20/year.    ``We   regret  that   we   cannot   accept  foreign
subscriptions, nor do we bill for subscriptions. Check or money
order must accompany subscription orders.'' (However, Canadians
may order the First Class subscription.).

MESSING ABOUT IN BOATS, none, Appears to fill the niche left by
Small Boat Journal  when they changed. Costs  20 buck per year.
29  Burley St.,  Wenham,  MA 01984.  ``This  is a  great little
magazine  filled  with  reader-contributed  articles  and  good
classifieds  (especially  for  readers  in  New  England). Very
entertaining, and you can't beat the price.'' (al).

MULTIHULLS, none, 421  Hancock St., N.  Quincy, MA 02171, (800)
333-6858, 21/year (6 issues). As the name states, this magazine
deals exclusively  with multihulls.  Coverage is  divided about
evenly  between cruising,  design,  building, and  racing. They
also sell books, videos, and posters.(al).

NATIONAL   FISHERMAN,  none,  The  working  seaman's  magazine.
Printed  on newsprint,  filled  with editorials  about  why the
fisherman cannot make it in  the modern USA, and articles about
how well  EPIRBs *really* work,  etc. A  *great* mag. Wonderful
classifieds.

OCEAN   NAVIGATOR,  none,  Informative  article;  passagemaking
information, info  on nav hardware  and tools.  The letters are
worth the price of  admission. Nav problems at  the end of each
issue that  include piloting  and offshore  celestial problems,
with answers.  Only magainze that  I read cover  to cover. Some
articles  about  electrics tend  to  be  slightly screwy--Nigel
Calder can't distinguish amps from amp-hours.

OFFSHORE, none, Covers  the Northeast coast  from New Jersey to
Maine. Good coverage of the  area with plenty of local interest
stories,  marina profiles,  safe  boating, navigation  and area
history.  Slightly  skewed  toward  powerboats  but  plenty  of
interest to sailboaters, too.  Regular columns on local boating
news and Coast Guard Search  and Rescue summary. Series by Dave
Gerr  on  understanding  Yacht  Design  contains  many  of  the
articles  on which  his book  "The Nature  of Boats"  is based.
Excellent    classified  section   with  a   unique  "renewable
guarantee" that will keep your ad  in until sold for a one time
fee of 25.00 (wms).

PRACTICAL   BOAT  OWNER,  none,  published  in  Poole,  Dorset,
England.    Practical   Boat   Owner   Subscription,   Quadrant
Subscription  Services,  Perrymount  Road,  Hayward  Heath,  W.
Sussex,  RH16 3DH,  United Kingdom.  Another reader  notes that
``The current Practical Boat  Owner gives the following address
for overseas subscriptions:  Practical Boat Owner,  PO Box 272,
Haywards  Heath, W  Sussex, RH16  3FS,  UK. Tel:  [phone].''
P.B.O. is  great for boat  tests (yachts any  size, motor boats
mostly    small)  and   simply  excellent   for  how-to-do-its.
Editorials  reflect  the  British scene  since  it's  a British
magazine. The editor, George  Taylor, answers queries in person
by return of post.

PRACTICAL SAILOR,  none, These folks  test out  products and do
sailboat reviews and compare products made by different people.
They also answer questions. They have no adverts, so that their
information is nominally unbiased. <As I learn more and more, I
respect them  less and less.  They often test  products in ways
that  aren't  all  that reasonable.  Their  test  of  rope, for
example, was based solely on abrasion resistance. Fine for your
mooring pennant, but  not the whole story.  Their test of other
products has not impressed me  either. And, last but not least,
they have  wacky ideas  about galvanic  corrosion---I would not
trust anything these  guys said about  electricity. It helps to
be an educated reader.

SAIL, none,  Informative articles,  usually pretty  basic. Good
charter listings. Good brokerage listing.

SAILING, none,  Published in  Port Washington,  Wisconsin. It's
large format (11 x 14)  can have some pretty striking pictures.
They're  a  general  interest  sailing  magazine.  Their design
editor is Robert Perry. There's  a ``boat focus'' column on one
particular boat each month written  by an owner... usually nice
family cruisers.

SAILING WORLD, none, Mostly about sailboat racing. Very good on
that topic.

SMALL BOAT JOURNAL, none, now  ``Boat Journal.'' <Never look at
a copy  of this  printed after  1990, especially  if you  are a
sailor. Early issues are real treasures---circa 1978-1980, they
were the  best, most honest,  best produced,  small sailing mag
around.

SOUNDINGS, none, Good  articles on all  aspects of boats; great
classified  section.  18.95  FOR 12  MONTHS.  35  PRATT STREET/
ESSEX,CT  06426.  203 767-3200;  203  767-1048  FAX. UPDATE...A
BETTER  PRICE....  14.95  PER  YEAR  VISA,  MASTER  CHARGE  800
341-1522 24 HOURS.

THE    COMMODORE'S  BULLETIN   OF   THE  SEVEN   SEAS  CRUISING
ASSOCIATION,  none, If  you dream  of  sailing into  the sunset
someday, this will feed your fantasies. Full membership in this
organisation   is  exclusive,   but  anyone  can   join  as  an
``associate'' member and get the Bulletin. It is just reprinted
letters  from members  cruising  all over  the  world. 25/year.
Address  is:  SSCA//  521  S.  Andrews  Ave.//  Ste.  10// Fort
Lauderdale, FL 33301 USA.

WEST MARINE'S  ANNUAL CATALOG,  none, For  pure information per
dollar, this has  got to be  the best buy  around. True, it's a
once-a-year journal, but their West  Advisor sections on how to
best run marine plumbing,  what kind of wire  is best, etc., is
really  worth reading.  Slightly  biased towards  promoting the
purchase of expensive items, though.

WOODEN BOAT,  none, Lovely pictures,  informative articles, and
they pay  attention to *new*  woodworking as well  as old. They
have a love  affair with Maynard Bray  and Phil Bolger, though,
and you have to watch out for this bias -jfh-.

YACHTING,  none, The  very  rich person's  boat  magazine. Most
boats over 60 feet.

YACHTING QUARTERLY,  none, A  ``video format''  magazine; about
100 per  year for four  videotapes. These tapes  include a fair
number of how-to segments, and are  supposed to get you an idea
of    how-they-hoist-the-chute-on-the-winning-J40,   and   such
things.


7.2 Nonfiction about sailing trips

SHRIMPY  AND  SHRIMPY  SAILS AGAIN,  Shane  Acton,  This  is an
amazing story of a guy who  spent eight years sailing the world
in a caprice  class 18ft boat.  None of the  other books I have
read  on the  subject  come close  to  this achievment.  A none
sailor, his own money, very very  limited funds. This guy is my
hero.

MAIDEN  VOYAGE,  Tania  Aebi,  1988  Excellent.  An 18-year-old
girl/woman circumnavigating westward in a Contessa 26.

117 DAYS ADRIFT, Bailey.

SECOND   CHANCE:  VOYAGE  TO  PATAGONIA,  Baileys,  Interesting
contrast with Slocum's earlier account.

GYPSY  MOTH CIRCLES  THE  WORLD, Sir  Francis  Chichester, 1968
Another  classic,  of  a solo  cicumnavigation  in  a  fast but
vicious boat,  best read together  with The Lonely  Sea and the
Sky.

THE  LONELY  SEA  AND THE  SKY,  Sir  Francis  Chichester, 1964
Excellent  auto-biography  of  the  great  adventurer. Includes
transatlantic  voyages, and  his  pioneering first  flight (NOT
non-stop!) across the Tasman Sea.

TWO YEARS BEFORE THE MAST, Richard Henry Dana, Harvard boy goes
to sea, and writes eloquently about the details of sea life.

COME  HELL OR  HIGH WATER,  Clare Francis,  A very  small woman
racing single-handed across the Atlantic.

COME WIND OR  WEATHER, Clare Francis, 1979  She skippers a Swan
65 in the Whitbread.

MATE  IN  SAIL,  James Gaby,  Reminiscences  of  a  lifetime in